Classic Week Ascents

Alpine Trilogy Mont Blanc - The Matterhorn - The Eiger

My Trilogy program is a well thought out, successful 12 day course that involves specific training climbs and an acclimatization period. These are important elements for your success and enjoyment. This program is for alpinists with a solid background in mountaineering and designed to optimize your time spent here in the Alps.The program starts off in Chamonix, France – alpine mountaineering and skiing world capital.The first four days are spent doing practice climbs on both rock and snow, aimed at helping you in any area you may need to brushen up technique. This is followed by the ascent of Mont Blanc, highest summit of the Alps at 4810m – 15,770', a long non-technical climb mainly on snow. The main difficulties stemming from the high altitude and general length of the climb. Our route will be either the Gouter hut or the Cosmiques hut depending on the conditions.Next we are off to Zermatt, a charming alpine resort nestled at the very end of the Valais region in the south west of Switzerland. Here lies the Matterhorn at 4479m – 14,691', an imposing rock pyramid that shadows the town of Zermatt. Climbing the Matterhorn offers some excellent moderate level rock and snow climbing, as well as some unbelievable exposure. The climb via the Hornli ridge is a long 3rd and 4th class scramble, which finishes on a snow covered slope leading to the knife edged summit. Speed, fitness and agility all play major roles in a successful ascent of the Matterhorn.Our final destination is Grindelwald, located in central Switzerland in the German speaking Bernese Oberland region. This is the home of the infamous Eiger and it’s legendary North Face. Here, we are again faced with a climb predominately on rock. The Eiger at 3971m – 13,025', offers many of the same challenges as to those found on the Matterhorn – mainly a 3rd and 4th class rock climb. Our route will take us along the Mittelligi ridge, a long exposed route that leads up to the snow capped summit ridge.
Memories of a lifetime, never to be forgotten.

Typical 12 day program
Day 1 - Crochues ridge traverse
This is a fine introductory rock climb located in the Aiguilles Rouges (Red Spires) mountains, just opposite the Mont Blanc range. This climb offers exceptional views of Mont Blanc and it’s surrounding summits and also gives some fine climbing and a taste of what to expect in the days that lie ahead. The route is entirely on rock along a sharp edged ridge to the summit of the Aiguilles Crochues 2840m – 9,315'

Day 2 Midi – Plan traverse
This is one of the finest traverses of it’s kind in the Alps. From the summit of the Aiguille du Midi cable car, we follow the thin snow covered ridge to the Aiguille du Plan 3673m – 12,047'. The climbing involves many stretches of snow, rock and mixed ground – the perfect opportunity on which to test your skills.

Day 3 Tête Rousse Hut
This will be your fist taste of high altitude and a perfect warm-up for our climb of Mont Blanc. The climb starts by taking the Aiguille du Midi cable car (again), crosses the Col du Midi plateau and then ascends the North Face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m – 13,933'. The climb is entirely on snow and a great way to get ready for climbing Mont Blanc.Day 4 Goûter Hut
Today, we are on our way to start climbing the big three summits. First however, we must start off the day by climbing up to the Goûter hut 3818m – 12,523', which involves a long 5 hour ascent over an easy rock rib to the summit of the Aiguille du Goûter where the hut is located.Day 5 Mont Blanc
Summit day at last. After a classic alpine start at 2 am, we are off by headlamp light up the Dome du Goûter 4305m – 14,121' and up to the Vallot emergency shelter 4363m – 14,311', for a quick break and something to eat and drink. From here, we ascend the thin ridge of Les Bosses, past the Tournette rocks and finish on the final, never ending ridge up to the summit of Mont Blanc 4808m – 15,770', highest peak of the Alps. Outstanding views of all of the major ranges of the Alps can be seen from here. The 360° panorama is breathtaking !
One down, two to go.

Day 6 - Extra day Rest or weather day.

Day 7 - Zermatt
This morning will be used for travel by car to the alpine resort of Zermatt. A quick walk through town and we are off to a series of cable cars to Schwarzee. From here, we hike the remainder of the way to the Hornli hut 3261m – 10,695', basecamp for our ascent of the Matterhorn.

Day 8 - The Matterhorn
Another before dawn start, this time 4am, a quick breakfast and a hurried scramble off to begin our ascent. It is important to be off quickly, as there are often many other groups and being stuck behind them will cut into precious time. However, many non-guided parties will often get off track and fall behind. No worries here, as this is my favorite climb, and we will certainly catch many on the way up, saving us not only time but more importantly energy.Our climb will take us up through some very steep, exposed sections of rock at the start, that then kick back a little the higher we go. After a few harder pitches, we will arrive at the Solvay emergency shelter 4001m – 13,133' and take a well earned break. Once past this point, we follow the very edge of the ridge up to the fixed ropes leading to the snow capped summit field. Here at the very isolated summit of the Matterhorn 4479m – 14,691' , one has a strange feeling of just how sharp and pointed the Matterhorn really is. Again we will have some very impressive views of the surrounding mountains of the Valais region – the region of the Alps with the highest concentration of 4000m - 13,120' peaks.
Two down, one to go – or as we say here in France: "Never two without three"

Day 9 - Rest day
Perhaps to be enjoyed by spending the day doing an adventure in the gorges of Zermatt? Travel to Grindelwald in the afternoon.

Day 10 - Mittelligi cabin
From the train station in Grindelwald, we will take the famous cog wheel train up through the pastures and alpine meadows lying below the North Face of the Eiger to the Kleine Scheidegg hotel/restaurant, and then on through the inside of the Eiger up to the Eismeer station 3160m – 10,364'. A short, light lunch and then we are off to the Mittelligi hut 3356m – 11,007', spectacular surroundings and awesome views !

Day 11 The Eiger
Our last early morning start, the climbing heads up the along the narrow Mittelligi ridge, past several sections of fixed ropes to the snow covered summit of the Eiger. Once at the summit, the views down towards the North Face are literally breathtaking.A grand finally to a fine week of grand climbing.Day 12
This is an extra day reserved for inclement weather or may be spent doing an interesting rock climb to add additional skills.

* Actual course details and climbs may vary depending on conditions and or participants level.

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