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Here is some advice on
getting prepared for your trip.
(Need to read - if you want to have some
speed...)
Be adequately prepared
for your trip
Mental preparation
Physical preparation
Well, how do I train
for it?
Rating the climbing
- Be adequately prepared
for your trip.
Before you come, I strongly suggest that you prepare yourself physically and
also mentally for the program. You will feel that much more at ease once you get
here. Additionally, you are certain to learn many new and exciting things about
the Alps. Being physically well prepared may seem evident. But please take the
time to mentally prepare for your trip as well.
- Mental preparation
Learn a bit of French, read up on the culture, know where you are going. The
most common thing people will say to me is "if only I had known" or
"I had no idea"... Find out about what you want to do. Read some
books, surf the web. The more familiar you are with the surroundings the easier
and more enjoyable your vacation will be.
- Physical preparation
This is THE most important part of preparation. Sounds like a simple task but don’t underestimate it. It
DOES take a lot of time to get into good climbing or skiing shape – especially if you
are not already there…
Plus there are lots of other things that get into the way, your job, family
commitments, weather, other hobbies…
Mountain sports, such as climbing and skiing are very
physically demanding. They are also very demanding technically and
psychologically. Investing ample time into physical training is crucial in
having a successful trip.
- Legend keys
I will use the following keys to help you better understand
the level needed for climbing in my programs.
Well, how do I train for it?
Lots of people ask me how to train for mountaineering and skiing and ask me what do I do? Well, I don’t really train…
Say what?
I am out climbing and skiing nearly all the time so I don’t really go out and train, so to speak. I am fortunate enough to have a job that keeps me in prime
physical condition. I do however try to stretch whenever possible and stay
active during the off peak periods by adding some other fun sports to my list; cycling, trail running, squash, anything that involves moving around.
So what can you do?
Well, it really depends upon your present state of fitness. Where are you exactly ? Be honest with yourself.
If you don’t know, then get a physical done by a doctor that can give you
honest answers. Tell he or she what you plan on doing. This is an important element to take into consideration as your fitness will
determine what you will be able to accomplish.
The very best advice I can give you is to get out there and move around. Nothing
could be farther from the truth than to say that spending time on a stair master or an exercise
bike will make you a great climber or skier. Both of these exercises will help
your fitness, but you REALLY need to get up and out and move your bones around.
The same goes for lifting weights. Spend your training time wisely, having big
biceps isn't going to help you get up any mountain. Use whatever time you have train with as best you can. Highlight sports that
involve stretching, balance and agility rather than weight training. Yoga and Pilates classes are offered at every gym.
Take the hard way up – yeah that means using the stairs – on the way up and on the way down. Go walk to
get lunch and while you are at it find something creative to do while on the way
– walk along the edge of the sidewalk, along the bridge railing, do some
stretching while you are standing in line waiting.
Exercise within your target zone of 75-80% of your max heart
rate. Only by staying there for extended periods of time will you obtain optimal fitness.
Always try to incorporate activities that use balance and agility into your daily routine rather than classic ones.Walking on even moderately rough trial is better
than running on pavement. You have to develop and build the motor skills (yes, they are skills) needed when mountaineering or skiing, which all have to do with balance.
The majority of either of these two sports involves balancing on
small rocks, scrambling up and down boulders, stretching from one spot to another. Now what does this have to do with pumping iron in the gym???
Being able to move with ease on this type of terrain will allow you to save energy and therefore go farther with less effort which exactly what you want to
do when you will be at higher altitudes.
It may sound simple, but these are all skills that must be learned. And you can’t
learn them on the treadmill.Now for those of you who want to get out there
and fill your pack with weight to "simulate" doing something harder –
STOP. Take a lightweight day- pack and go out and cover twice as much ground. Your joints will be better off and you will cover more ground and therefore be training much more effectively.
One of the most frequent questions
I have is "How hard IS the climbing?"
Well, as one can probably imagine, climbs vary according to the conditions, time
of the year and your climbing level. The information found here should only be
used as a base to give you an idea of
what to expect. If you have particular questions on something, you always email
me and I will get back to you as soon as I possibly can. Also - don't forget to
check on the weather
report, avalanche danger and if
using a hut - reserve it ! How is the level of a climb determined ? In Europe we use letters to rate the
difficulty of a climb.
| F |
easy |
| PD |
fairly easy |
| AD |
moderate |
| D |
difficult |
| TD |
very difficult |
| ED |
extremely
difficult |
These ratings take into account the technical and physical levels of the
climb as well as any objective dangers such as rock / ice fall, the descent, the
exposition of the climb, the altitude, the length, and the overall commitment.
There is a lot to take into account. Obviously, a climb can change dramatically
from one day to another, let alone from year to year. Weather and the amount of
climbers / traffic will also influence the routes and their ratings
tremendously.
|
Grade |
Translation |
Examples |
F |
Facile |
Easy |
- Allalinhorn, West Ridge
- Aiguille du Toule
|
PD |
Peu Difficile |
A little difficult |
- Mont Blanc, Goûter Route
or the 3 Mont Blancs Traverse
- Jungfrau, via Rottalsattel (PD+)
- Mönch, SE Ridge
- Tour Ronde, SE Ridge
- Gran Paradiso (PD-)
- Midi - Plan Traverse
|
AD |
Assez Difficile |
Fairly difficult |
- Dent du Géant
- Matterhorn,Hornligrat (AD-)
- Aiguille Verte, Whymper Couloir (AD+)
- Aiguille du Chardonnet, Forbes Arête
- Eiger, South Ridge
- Mönch, Nollen Route
- Aiguille du Peigne, Normal Route
|
D |
Difficile |
Difficult |
- Mont Maudit, Frontier Ridge
- Eiger, Mittellegi Ridge
- Mont Blanc, Brenva Spur (AD/D)
- Charmoz/Grepon Traverse (D-)
- Aiguille du Chardonnet, North Buttress,(D-)
- Tour Ronde, North Face (AD+/D-)
- Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur, (D+)
|
TD |
Tres Difficile |
Very difficult |
- Mont Blanc du Tacul, Gervasutti Pillar
- Grands Charmoz, Cordier Pillar
- Les Droites, NE Spur (TD/TD+)
|
ED |
Extremement Difficile |
Extremely difficult |
- Eiger, North Face 1938 Route (ED2)
- Les Droites, North Face Classic (ED1)
- Mont Blanc, Peuterey Ridge Integral (TD+/ED1)
- Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur (ED1)
|
click here for Some Selected Alpine Routes
Rating Table for rock routes
(this is approx.)
| FrenchAmerican |
English |
| 4/4+5.6,7 |
4 |
| 55.8 |
4b |
| 5+5.9 |
5a |
| 6a5.10a |
5b |
| 6a+ |
5.10b,c |
| 6b5.10c,d |
5c |
| 6b+5.11a |
6a |
| 6c |
5.11b |
| 6c+5.11c |
6b |
| 7a |
5.11d |
| 7a+5.12a |
6c |
What makes a mountaineer ?
In order to be
a proficient mountaineer, you must possess the following qualities : |
- Be in good health, physically fit and be
able to endure harsh weather conditions or sudden changes in temperature.
- Proficient in the use of all types of
mountaineering equipment.
- Knowledge about mountains and the type
of weather you may encounter at higher elevations.
- Being able to navigate; read a map, use
a compass and an altimeter.
- Skill in rope management on rock, snow
and ice and in difficult situations or in emergencies.
- Being able to move quickly over tricky
ground.
- Knowledge of crevasse rescue.
- Thorough knowledge of rappelling.
- Knowledge of the conditions that favor avalanches and how to foresee them and take evasive action.
- Sound judgment on route finding
ability.
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Some other frequently asked
questions:
How much vertical terrain do
you usually cover per hour? |
Well of course that varies quite a lot.
Altitude and time of the year (conditions) can make those numbers very
different. A good rule of thumb is:
- summer climbs / winter ski touring average at least 900' per hour ascent rate. |
| I want to do technical climb, what
is the best way to train for it? |
| Sure getting
out and climbing is great but rock gyms and even bouldering are better. Nothing
beats plastic for the ease in which you will improve your skills and techniques.
Join a club at the gym, make friends and enjoy the climbing. |
| Why do we leave so early
in the morning? |
An often asked
question, that has lots of answers...
- weather: as the day
goes on, the temperatures rise and often create thunderstorms.
- heat: the snow gets softer, making it more difficult to walk, creates
even more objective dangers (i.e. - slides, rockfall, etc...)
- it is also easier to breath when the temperature is cooler.
- sometimes we need the whole day to complete longer climbs. |
Some selected books
Mont Blanc Massif (2 Volumes) - Lindsay
Griffin / Excellent books in English. |
100 Finest routes in the Mont Blanc range.
- Gaston Rebuffat / the reference for classic routes available in English. |
The Alpine 4000 meter Peaks - Richard
Goedeke / good descriptions of all the big peaks of the Alps, in english. |
Any of the Piola topo guide books - all of
which are available in English. |
Neige, Glace et Mixte -
Damilano, Perroux /
the complete up to date guide book for snow, ice and mixed routes in the Mont
Blanc area, available only in French for the moment. |
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