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Classic Week Ascents - Mont Blanc 4,810m
Even if Mont Blanc is
one of the most sought after peaks of the Alps,
climbing the highest mountain of the Alps
remains a great physical challenge. The vertical
ascent and length of the climbing are among some
of the highest and longest on any mountain in
the world.As the old timers say
"MONT BLANC must be earned". A
statement which is indeed very true and the
reason for allowing adequate time to acclimate
and practice your skills. The week is spent
learning how to crampon and use an ice axe
correctly. There is also work on safe glacier
travel, route finding and planning and
orientation. We will do practice climbs on
nearby peaks to acclimatize and get better
familiarized with the MONT BLANC range. This
course is sure to get you on "top" !Typically there are two
"normal" routes leading to the top of
Mont Blanc, the most classic being via the
Gouter Ridge, the other being the slightly more
difficult 3 Mont Blanc traverse. The final
decision of which route will be taken will
depend on conditions/weather/hut availability/climber
fitness. We will discuss the choice together
during the first few days of the course.
Typical 6 day MONT
BLANC program
Day 1 - Aig. du Midi
The order of the day is to allow me
to assess your abilities and at the same time
acclimate and get your first look at Mont Blanc
from up close. We will meet at the Aiguille du
Midi cable car station and then head off down
the narrow summit ridge to the glacier plateau
below. From here we have two choices;
1) have a short walk across the plateau to the
Pointe Lachenal which is an easy ascent or
2) climb the short but technical Cosmiques
ridge.
Night in Chamonix.
Day 2 - Albert 1er hut
From town we are off to the small,
old village of Le Tour. From here we will take a
gondola to the Col de Balme from where a short
1.5 hour hike awaits us to reach the Albert 1er
hut. Later in the afternoon we talk about rope
skills and crevasse rescue. Night at the Albert
1er hut, altitude 2770 m (9,086').
Day 3 - Aiguille du Tour
Your first alpine start of the week
- wake up is at 4:00 a.m. and we will head out
into the night after a nice breakfast at the
hut. The climb starts with an easy glacier walk
up and over the Col du Tour and into
Switzerland. Shortly after follows an
interesting scramble over rocks and snow to the
airy summit of the Aiguille du Tour 3516 m
(11,532'). From here your first great views of
the Alps are to be had: the Matterhorn, the
Aiguille du Chardonnet and of course Mont
Blanc.
Night in Chamonix.
Day 4 - Extra prep day or rest/weather day
Depending on your fitness, fatigue
and of course the weather, this day is used as
reserve. If all goes well and the weather is good, we will certainly spend part of the day doing some great rock climbing in the valley or perhaps discover a day of canyoneering!
Day 5 - Gouter hut
Today gets under way with a ride in the Bellevue
cable car in the town of les Houches to catch
the TMB, a cog wheel train and finally its
destination of Nid d'Aigle or "Eagle's
Nest"at 2373 m (7,783'). From this lofty
perch we will hike along a good trail, which
will gradually get steeper and more rugged to
reach the Tete Rousse hut 3150 m
(10,332'), where we will have a quick
lunch. We then push on and traverse the infamous
gully that lies below the Gouter hut. From here
the real climbing starts, we move roped together
on a steep, exposed shoulder of the Aiguille du
Gouter to finally reach the hut. It generally
takes about 5 hours to reach the hut which will
give us the afternoon to rest and prepare for
the following days big ascent. Night at the
Gouter hut. Altitude 3818 m (12,523').
Day 6 - Mont Blanc
This is it, the big day. We get up
very early - 2 am and quickly put on harnesses
and crampons. Upon leaving the hut and climbing
up to a ridge behind the Gouter Hut, the light
spectacle is quite amazing. It is pitch black
all around us except for the headlamps of those
in front and in back of us. Looking over the
edge of the ridge, you can see the 7,000+
vertical feet back into town and the glimmering
lights of Chamonix.
But for now, we must concentrate on finding a
steady pace. One that will carry us throughout
the long day. We begin by climbing up to the
pass of the Dome du Gouter 4305m (14,121 ft),
then across the plateau and up to the Vallot
emergency shelter 4363m (14,311 ft). Here we
stop to replenish our energy and maybe add a
layer of clothes - sometimes the wind can be
fierce and the temperature well below zero. Now
it's off to the final push, up several steep
ridges, the famous Arete des Bosses, past the
Tournette rocks and along the fine ridge which
is equally the border separating France from
Italy. Finally the summit - MONT BLANC - the
highest mountain of the Alps 4808m. It's time to
celebrate, snap some pictures and look off into
the distance at the other giant peaks of the
Alps -that surround us - the Grand Paradis,
Grandes Jorasses, Matterhorn, Mont Rose, Dent
Blanche, Grand Combin, La Verte, the Oberland
Bernese mountains of Central Switzerland, the
Aiguilles Rouges, the Fiz, the Aravis, Belledone,
the Ecrins, the Tarentaise, etc....
An ascent that will give you memories for a
lifetime.
* Actual course details
and climbs may vary depending on conditions and
or participants level.
Other related summer programs>> |
-
Level required : Good base fitness and proper
acclimatation. Novice mountaineers are welcome on the 6 day program.
- Dates : The best season is mid - June through the end of September.
- Group size : Maximum group size is 2 : 1 for safety.
- Cost : 1895 Euros per person
- Cost includes: guide fees, hut fees, lift services, group equipment and local transportation for both the guide and yourself.
- Cost does not include: Transportation to and or from
Chamonix, lodging when not in the mountains, lunches or drinks, personal equipment.
- A fee of 150 €uros is charged for days spent exclusively in town in poor weather, in a hut waiting in poor weather, or descending from a hut.
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