Classic Week Ascents - Mont Blanc 4,810m

Even if Mont Blanc is one of the most sought after peaks of the Alps, climbing the highest mountain of the Alps remains a great physical challenge. The vertical ascent and length of the climbing are among some of the highest and longest on any mountain in the world.As the old timers say "MONT BLANC must be earned". A statement which is indeed very true and the reason for allowing adequate time to acclimate and practice your skills. The week is spent learning how to crampon and use an ice axe correctly. There is also work on safe glacier travel, route finding and planning and orientation. We will do practice climbs on nearby peaks to acclimatize and get better familiarized with the MONT BLANC range. This course is sure to get you on "top" !Typically there are two "normal" routes leading to the top of Mont Blanc, the most classic being via the Gouter Ridge, the other being the slightly more difficult 3 Mont Blanc traverse. The final decision of which route will be taken will depend on conditions/weather/hut availability/climber fitness. We will discuss the choice together during the first few days of the course.

Typical 6 day MONT BLANC program 

Day 1 - Aig. du Midi
The order of the day is to allow me to assess your abilities and at the same time acclimate and get your first look at Mont Blanc from up close. We will meet at the Aiguille du Midi cable car station and then head off down the narrow summit ridge to the glacier plateau below. From here we have two choices; 
1) have a short walk across the plateau to the Pointe Lachenal which is an easy ascent or
2) climb the short but technical Cosmiques ridge.
Night in Chamonix.

Day 2 - Albert 1er hut
From town we are off to the small, old village of Le Tour. From here we will take a gondola to the Col de Balme from where a short 1.5 hour hike awaits us to reach the Albert 1er hut. Later in the afternoon we talk about rope skills and crevasse rescue. Night at the Albert 1er hut, altitude 2770 m (9,086').

Day 3 - Aiguille du Tour
Your first alpine start of the week - wake up is at 4:00 a.m. and we will head out into the night after a nice breakfast at the hut. The climb starts with an easy glacier walk up and over the Col du Tour and into Switzerland. Shortly after follows an interesting scramble over rocks and snow to the airy summit of the Aiguille du Tour 3516 m (11,532'). From here your first great views of the Alps are to be had: the Matterhorn, the Aiguille du Chardonnet and of course Mont Blanc. 
Night in Chamonix.

Day 4 - Extra prep day or rest/weather day
Depending on your fitness, fatigue and of course the weather, this day is used as reserve. If all goes well and the weather is good, we will certainly spend part of the day doing some great rock climbing in the valley or perhaps discover a day of canyoneering!

Day 5 - Gouter hut
Today gets under way with a ride in the Bellevue cable car in the town of les Houches to catch the TMB, a cog wheel train and finally its destination of Nid d'Aigle or "Eagle's Nest"at 2373 m (7,783'). From this lofty perch we will hike along a good trail, which will gradually get steeper and more rugged to reach the Tete Rousse hut 3150 m (10,332'), where we will have a quick lunch. We then push on and traverse the infamous gully that lies below the Gouter hut. From here the real climbing starts, we move roped together on a steep, exposed shoulder of the Aiguille du Gouter to finally reach the hut. It generally takes about 5 hours to reach the hut which will give us the afternoon to rest and prepare for the following days big ascent. Night at the Gouter hut. Altitude 3818 m (12,523').

Day 6 - Mont Blanc
This is it, the big day. We get up very early - 2 am and quickly put on harnesses and crampons. Upon leaving the hut and climbing up to a ridge behind the Gouter Hut, the light spectacle is quite amazing. It is pitch black all around us except for the headlamps of those in front and in back of us. Looking over the edge of the ridge, you can see the 7,000+ vertical feet back into town and the glimmering lights of Chamonix.
But for now, we must concentrate on finding a steady pace. One that will carry us throughout the long day. We begin by climbing up to the pass of the Dome du Gouter 4305m (14,121 ft), then across the plateau and up to the Vallot emergency shelter 4363m (14,311 ft). Here we stop to replenish our energy and maybe add a layer of clothes - sometimes the wind can be fierce and the temperature well below zero. Now it's off to the final push, up several steep ridges, the famous Arete des Bosses, past the Tournette rocks and along the fine ridge which is equally the border separating France from Italy. Finally the summit - MONT BLANC - the highest mountain of the Alps 4808m. It's time to celebrate, snap some pictures and look off into the distance at the other giant peaks of the Alps -that surround us - the Grand Paradis, Grandes Jorasses, Matterhorn, Mont Rose, Dent Blanche, Grand Combin, La Verte, the Oberland Bernese mountains of Central Switzerland, the Aiguilles Rouges, the Fiz, the Aravis, Belledone, the Ecrins, the Tarentaise, etc....
An ascent that will give you memories for a lifetime.

* Actual course details and climbs may vary depending on conditions and or participants level.

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