Classic Week Ascents - The Matterhorn 4,478m

The Matterhorn is considered by many people to be one of the world's most beautiful summits. The Matterhorn is certainly the world's most photographed and easily recognized mountain. It is the goal of many mountaineers and one that is certainly worthy of such fame.The best way to prepare for climbing the Matterhorn is by spending the week doing similar climbs. This will not only help you acclimatize, but also improve your general level of competence and skills in mountaineering. This 6 day program allows for specific preparation on shorter routes of the same nature to better optimize your chance for success.

6 Day Matterhorn Program 
Day 1 - Couvercle Hut
Take the Montenvers cog wheel train to the Mer de Glace (sea of ice). From here, we head out onto the glacier to review crampon technique and how to use the rope. Later in the day we will head up the glacier and ascend a series of long ladders to reach the Couvercle hut 2750 m (9,020') approx. a 3 hour hike for the night.

Day 2 - Aiguille du Moine
Climb the Aiguille du Moine 3450 m (11,316'). This is a perfect test climb for the Matterhorn as it is essentially on rock, some very sound granite. Most of the climbing is in the 3rd and 4th class range and includes many sections similar to that found on the Matterhorn. The ascent takes about 6 hours round trip and includes a very short approach from the Couvercle hut on a snow field, followed by e few easy pitches of climbing up gullies and chimneys to reach a series of easier ledges. After the climb, we will head back down the Mer de Glace and take the train back into Chamonix for the night.

Day 3 - Training climb in Chamonix
Do a short climb such as the Aiguille de l'M or the Cosmiques Arete. Which climb will depend upon which skills you need to work on most. We will spend time talking about the following days ascent and do any last minute preparations needed that afternoon in town. The idea is to have a short day to and be fresh for the Matterhorn.

Day 4 - Extra prep day or rest/weather day
Depending on your fitness, fatigue and of course the weather, this day is used as reserve. If all goes well and the weather is good, we will certainly spend part of the day doing some great rock climbing in the valley or perhaps a fantastic day of canyoneering!

Day 5 - Hornli Hutte
After a casual start, we will drive this morning through the Valais region of Switzerland to Zermatt, home of the Matterhorn. From Chamonix it takes about 2 hours to reach the car park of Tasch, where we will then hop onto a train to reach the village of Zermatt (there are no cars allowed in Zermatt). We then set off across the town, past luxurious hotels, nice restaurants and seemingly thousands of souvenir shops to reach the cable car up to Schwarzee and to start our hike to the Hornli Hut. The hike takes about 2 hours. The hut is situated at the very foot of the Hornli ridge at 3160m (10,365'). The view of the route is magnificent and we will probably go up to the foot of this giant pyramid and have a look at the start of the route so that you may better familiarize yourself with what the rock and route will be like. Evening at the Hornli hut.

Day 6 - summit Matterhorn
After a quick "breakfast" in true alpine fashion, we are off on our way by the light of our headlamps up through the first scree fields and steep gullies. The first bit of climbing is not difficult, a series of traverses and easy steps. It rapidly becomes steeper and more exposed, zig-zagging it's way up the rocky ridge. 
The climbing, although never technically very difficult demands constant attention due to the exposure and difficulty of climbing by headlamp light. The main difficulties stem from parties going off route, slow or just being technically incompetent for a climb such as this. Here, there is no need to worry, as this is my favorite climb, one that I have accomplished nearly 30 times and we will therefore not waste any time with such facts. The climbing continues with more traverses and a short harder pitch just below the Solvay emergency hut 4001m ( 13,133'). Here we traditionally stop for a short break, a snack and a drink before the first rays of sunlight start to warm the rock. From here, the climbing becomes steeper and is now entirely along the ridge itself. Though exposed, the views are amazing down the north face. After a few steep stretches, we will then hit the fixed ropes along the very shoulder of the mountain. We often need to stop and put on our crampons here, since this part of the mountain is much colder and snow covered due to the altitude and its northern exposure. These were first put in place by the Zermatt guides nearly 70 years ago. Although these ropes may seem like cheating, the climbing here would be much harder without them, and push the average climber beyond their capabilities. Once over these stretches of rope, we find ourselves once again on easier terrain. The climb now takes on a different nature of steep snow fields. The final few hundred yards seem never ending but you will sense the summit within reach...From the summit of the Matterhorn, one senses the true meaning of accomplishment... you have the feeling of being on top of the world as every other peak you can see seems to be lower than the Matterhorn. Certainly an experience you will remember for the rest of your life !Not be forgotten is the long, tiresome descent back to the Hornli hut and into town for a well earned beer and big celebration !

* Actual course details and climbs may vary depending on conditions and or participants level.

• Level required :
  A good general background in mountaineering or one of my other mountaineering courses as a pre-requisite and of course excellent physical condition.
  
  
• Dates : The best season is mid - July through mid - September.
  
  
• Group size : Due to the nature of the climbing on the Matterhorn only private guiding is available for the actual ascent of the Matterhorn.
  
  
• Cost : 1:1 guide ratio = 2750 Euros per person for the 6 day program.
  
  
• Cost includes: guide fees, hut fees, lift services, group equipment and local transportation for both the guide and yourself.
  
  
• Cost does not include: Transportation to and or from Chamonix (or Zermatt if you plan on staying there), lodging when not in the mountains, lunches or drinks, personal equipment.
  
  
• A fee of 150 €uros is charged for days spent exclusively in town in poor weather, in a hut waiting in poor weather, or descending from a hut.