NoSiesta Chamonix Mountain Guide Francis Kelsey

Johan heading down the Col du Chardonnet

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EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING LIST


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Any competent mountaineer will tell you : LIGHT IS RIGHT
Being light means being able to move quickly, therefore safely - and with more pleasure. Select your clothing and gear with this in mind. Buy items that offer a double function – such as a windproof vest. By simply taking two extra everything and overloading your pack, you are going to slow yourself down, that doesn't make you a safer or better climber.

Summer climbing courses

Personal Clothing

Gore-Tex (or similar breathable shell clothing) Jacket and pants or bib.
Gaiters.
Lightweight climbing pants for days on the rock.
Lightweight thermal top (polypro or capilene).
Lightweight fleece shirt.
Fleece jacket.
Windshirt or vest.
Warm ski gloves w/ leather palms if possible and a shell over-mitt.
Spare pair of lightweight spring gloves or wool liners.
Warm hat or balaclava.
Baseball cap (for the sun).
Non cotton socks.
Glacier glasses or good quality sun glasses that filter 100% of UV rays.

Personal gear

Harness w/ 2 locking 'biners and a belaying device (avoid a harness with lots of straps and gadgets and no belay loop, rather look for a harness offering good support and comfort). The PETZL GOUROU is a perfect multi-purpose harness.

2 prussik loops.

1 long sling.

1 non technical ice axe also referred to as a walking axe (be sure not to buy one that is too long !). Usually somewhere between 55 and 65cm is fine. GRIVEL'S AIR TECH is lightweight and perfect for occasional use. For the more advanced climbing courses where two axes are needed GRIVEL'S MACHINE is the perfect example of a modern ice climbing tool.

Crampons w/ anti- balling plates. GRIVEL'S G12 is a great all around choice.

Mountaineering boots. Leather is the preferred choice. Make certain your crampons work on them !

Rock shoes. My favorites are Five Ten stealth rubber

A small weekend pack 30 – 40l (2000-2500 c.i.) is plenty big enough. Here you can really save some weight if you are smart. Remember the more straps the time it will take to get it right…

Headlamp w/ a new battery. (PETZL ARCTIC is best for the cold weather).

Telescopic poles help distribute the weight of your pack better and take a load off you legs and back.

Small compact camera (avoid bringing along an expensive 35mm).

Personal first aid kit (second skin, aspirin, toilet articles).

Sun block and lip cream.

Water bottle 1 liter minimum with insulated cover (metal bottles are best - plastic holds bad after tastes and also mildew !).

Group Gear
I supply all of this equipment.

rope(s) 60m is standard length for rappels nowadays.
crevasse rescue equipment (a lightweight pulley, ascender, 2 ice screws).
first aid kit.
repair kit.
altimeter, maps, compass.
radio (optional).

Winter Climbing Courses
Same equipment as above and also :

2 technical ice tools
Technical crampons
A lightweight down jacket for the belay. 1 per rope team is fine.
Face mask.
Goggles.
Lightweight thermal bottoms.
Shells for your gloves.
A thermos for hot liquids to keep you warm when climbing.

Winter Climbing Courses
Same equipment as above and also :

2 technical ice tools
Technical crampons
A lightweight down jacket for the belay. 1 per rope team is fine.
Face mask.
Goggles.
Lightweight thermal bottoms.
Shells for your gloves.
A thermos for hot liquids to keep you warm when climbing.

Winter Climbing Courses
Same equipment as above and also :

2 technical ice tools
Technical crampons
A lightweight down jacket for the belay. 1 per rope team is fine.
Face mask.
Goggles.
Lightweight thermal bottoms.
Shells for your gloves.
A thermos for hot liquids to keep you warm when climbing.

Winter and spring skiing courses

Off-Piste Skiing Courses

Your ski clothing (socks, hats, extra gloves, goggles w/ extra lenses).
Your personal ski gear (boots, skis - tuned and waxed, poles).
A small day pack 20l (1000 c.i.) for lunches and water.
Harness with opening leg loops (PETZL Gourou style is best), a locking pear shaped HMS carabiner.
Avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe.

Extreme Skiing Courses
Same equipment as above and also :

Lightweight ice axe
Lightweight crampons

Climbing skins w/ adapters such as the Alpine Trekker.

Ski Mountaineering Courses

If one uses huts and is able to obtain precise, certain weather conditions, it is possible to do a week long ski trip such as the Haute Route with a light pack. Being light means being able to move quickly, therefore safely - and with more pleasure. One can do the Haute Route with a pack weighing no more than 18 lbs. Those carrying a rope will weigh a bit more but a pack should never weigh more than 25 - 27 lbs.

Gore Tex (or similar breathable shell clothing) Jacket and bib or pants.
Lightweight thermal underwear (polypro or capilene).
Lightweight fleece sweater or winshirt.
Fleece jacket or down vest.
Ski gloves w/ leather palms if possible (gloves not mittens are best - you can't get a grip on anything with mittens) w/ a shell.
Spare pair of lightweight spring gloves.
3 pairs of non cotton socks.
Ski hat.
Goggles.
Baseball cap (for the sun).
Glacier glasses.
Sun block and lip cream.
Insulated water bottle (1Liter).
Small headlamp w/ a new battery.
Harness w/ locking carabiner.
2 prussik loops.
1 long sling.
Ice axe (a 50cm model is fine. Grivel's Air Tech is perfect).
Lightweight crampons (again Grivel's aluminum model is great).
Small pocket camera (optional).
Small toilet kit w/ tooth brush, aspirin, personal stuff.
Skis w/ randonnée bindings.
Randonnée skiing boots.
Climbing skins (stay away from the plastic snake skins).
Ski crampons (yes you DO need them).
Ski poles (normal ones are the best).
Avalanche transceiver.

Medium sized pack 30 –40l (2000-2500 c.i.).

Group Gear
I supply all of this equipment.

Ropes 50m of 9 mm rope is fine (split it into 2 sections of 25m - easier and lighter for everyone).
Crevasse rescue equipment (a lightweight pulley, ascender, 2 ice screws).
First aid kit.
Repair kit.
Altimeter, maps, compass.

1 shovel and probe for every 2-3 skiers.

When there can only be one - chose the first one

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