Classic Week Ascents - The Eiger 3,970m

There are not many mountains that demand as much respect and inspire awe such as the Eiger. The daughnting north face was the last of "the great problems" of the Alps to be solved. The best way to prepare for climbing the Eiger is by spending the week doing similar climbs. This will not only help you acclimatize, but also improve your general level of competence and skills in mountaineering. This 6 day program allows for specific preparation on shorter routes of the same nature to better optimize your chance for success.

6 Day Eiger Program 

Day 1 - Couvercle Hut
Take the Montenvers cog wheel train to the Mer de Glace (sea of ice). From here, we head out onto the glacier to review crampon technique and how to use the rope. Later in the day we will head up the glacier and ascend a series of long ladders to reach the Couvercle hut 2750 m (9,020') approx. a 3 hour hike for the night.

Day 2 - Aiguille du Moine
Climb the Aiguille du Moine 3450 m (11,316'). This is a perfect test climb for the Matterhorn as it is essentially on rock, some very sound granite. Most of the climbing is in the 3rd and 4th class range and includes many sections similar to that found on the Matterhorn. The ascent takes about 6 hours round trip and includes a very short approach from the Couvercle hut on a snow field, followed by e few easy pitches of climbing up gullies and chimneys to reach a series of easier ledges. After the climb, we will head back down the Mer de Glace and take the train back into Chamonix for the night.

Day 3 - Training climb in Chamonix
Do a short climb such as the Aiguille de l'M or the Cosmiques Arete. Which climb will depend upon which skills you need to work on most. We will spend time talking about the following days ascent and do any last minute preparations needed that afternoon in town. The idea is to have a short day to and be fresh for the journey to Grindelwald.

Day 4 - Extra prep day or rest/weather day
Depending on your fitness, fatigue and of course the weather, this day is used as reserve. If all goes well and the weather is good, we will certainly spend part of the day doing some great rock climbing in the valley.

Day 5 -Mittelligi cabin
From the train station in Grindelwald, we will take the famous cog wheel train up through the pastures and alpine meadows lying below the North Face of the Eiger to the Kleine Scheidegg hotel/restaurant, and then on through the inside of the Eiger up to the Eismeer station 3160m – 10,364 ft. A short, light lunch and then we are off to the Mittelligi hut 3356m – 11,007 ft, spectacular surroundings and awesome views!

Day 6 - The Eiger
A quick alpine breakfast and we are off on our way by the light of our headlamps. The climbing heads up the along the narrow Mittelligi ridge, past several sections of fixed ropes which come in very handy at times, to finally reach the snow covered summit of the Eiger. Once at the summit, the views down towards the North Face are litterally breathtaking. However, our journey doesn't stop here, as we need to contimue on with our decent. We have two options:
1) Make a long traverse to back to the Jungfraujoch station or
2) Make the classic decent down the west face of the mountain back to the rail station at the Klein Scheidegg.Whichever one we choose, the celebratory beer will sure taste great!

* Actual course details and climbs may vary depending on conditions and or participants level.

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