Your Guide

I am the first American guide to have obtained International IFMGA/UIAGM certification. This is the highest professional qualification available in mountaineering. UIAGM certification is mandatory to guide in the Alps. I am dedicated to providing you with safe, professional, quality climbing and skiing programs whether you are a novice or an expert. Guiding is a very old tradition here in the Alps and guides take their job very seriously. Guiding is all I do. It is not a part time activity nor a hobby, but more a way of life and most certainly a passion ! I would like to pass some of these traditions on to you and offer you the possibility of sharing this passion for the mountains with you.
See you up there !
Francis

So what makes hiring me special ?
Most people realize that by hiring a mountain guide you reduce the risks involved with mountain related sports. You can also take advantage of climbing and skiing in places where you probably would not go alone. But did you also know that an enormous amount of climbing and skiing can be packed into a holiday in the company of a mountain guide. How many times have I seen people come and want to do it all on their own, which may be fine, but spend half their time trying to find out about the route or weather and end up missing the window...
If you end up only doing a small percentage of what you wanted to - what is the better choice ? Optimize your time here, and make tracks instead of following them...

• I personally guide my trips whenever I possibly can. I believe in that it is nearly impossible to offer a high level of commitment and responsibility unless you are out there yourself. I also on the occasion, ask fellow guides to assist me especially during the peak months. All guides are internationally certified UIAGM guides - This is the highest qualification available in mountaineering. And one I have dedicated my life to. This is also a mandatory qualification to guide in Europe.
  
  
• I am an independent guide and therefore have much more freedom to offer you a singular, worthwhile experience while in the mountains. Customized trips are what I do best.

• Small climber to guide ratios are of the utmost importance when considering hiring a guide. I offer the lowest ratios I know of – any program I offer can also be done on private basis. Bigger numbers means less time spent learning, less safety and far less flexibility, all very important issues to remember…to get the most out of your mountain holiday.
  
  
• What I do goes far beyond being just a "job" or a summertime hobby. Guiding is a full time commitment for me. It is a lifelong passion of mine and one that I wish to pass on along to you.
  
  
• I have extensive knowledge of the Alps. I know where to go and better yet when to go there. This allows you to take advantage of the best possible conditions and get the most out of your holiday. What could be better than getting a first hand account from myself having climbed or skied the route that same morning !
  
  
• Local transportation is included in all of my programs. I live here year round and offer transportation in my personal vehicle. By signing up for one of my programs you are certain to be spending as much time in the mountains as we can. There is no figuring out where to go and how to get there – spend your time (and money) wisely.
  
  
• By working with other guides in Europe and in the USA, I am able to share and learn new techniques, developments and information in the world of mountaineering.
  
  
• You also have the opportunity to demo the latest gear from any one of my partners. Be on the cutting edge.

A little history
I am a professional mountain & ski guide. I have been guiding now since 1992. I have always been "into" the mountains – skiing at age 4 and secretly sneaking away for overnight bivouacs in the mountains behind my parents house. At age 13, I decided to pursue my airy scrambles for something that looked a bit more fun. I went to work as an assistant bringing out other young teenagers on exciting hiking and more importantly to me, climbing outings.One thing led to another and before I knew it my world evolved around the mountains. At the age of 18 I moved to France to pursue my passion, becoming actively involved with the French Alpine Club organizing outings and putting up climbing routes here and there. In 1992 I entered the prestigious ENSA or French guides school in Chamonix and became the first and only American to receive international certification (UIAGM) through this prestigious school. 
Since then I have been making my living as a full time professional guide, climbing and skiing in many of the worlds great mountain ranges. In addition to having learned the French language I also have worked as a technical consultant for Petzl, and Grivel.

Ski Extreme
Something I have to mention is my great passion for steep skiing. I guide with "Stages Vallençant" now called Summits during the winter and spring. This is a guide office located on the main street in the Twinner sports shop as you come into the village of Argentière. The office was founded by the late extreme skier, Patrick Vallençant and some of his friends in 1977. As one can imagine, all of us are obsessed with skiing in general, and the steeper the better...We are certainly the best group of guides to hire if you are looking for some fantastic skiing!

Some climbs I have guided :

• Eiger: North Face Lauper route; the Mittellegi Ridge, West face.
  
• Mönch: Nollen Route
  
• Dent Blanche
  
• Matterhorn: the traverse, Hörnli Ridge, Zmutt ridge.
  
• Grandes Jorasses : Shroud and Hirondelles ridge.
  
• Mont Blanc: various routes (more times than I can remember) including the traverse from the Aiguille du Midi, the Grands Mulets and the Gouter, Brenva Spur, Innominata ridge, Aiguilles Grises…Grand Capucin : Bonatti route.Les Drus : Traverse.
  
• Les Courtes: Swiss, Austrian & NNEast routes.
  
• La Verte : Couturier couloir, Whymper couloir.
  
• Aig. du Midi: Frendo spur, Mallory, Tournier…M Blanc du Tacul: Supercouloir, Gervasutti pillar.+ 100’s of other routes throughout the Alps.Aconcagua: the Polish Glacier and the Normal Route.
  
• Sierra Nevadas, Colorado, Utah, Washington state….

• Eiger : West face.
  
• Tour Ronde: North Face, Gervasutti couloir.
  
• La Verte: Whymper couloir.
  
• Les Courtes: NNEast route.
  
• Aig. de Blaitiere: Spencer couloir.
  
• M Blanc du Tacul: Couloir du Diable.
  
• + 100’s of other crazy, wild stuff….

• Eiger : North Face.
  
• Matterhorn : North Face – classic route.
• Grandes Jorasses : 3 different routes on the NF.
  
• El Capitan: the Nose.
  
• Mont Blanc: Peuterey Ridge.
  
• Les Droites: North face classic route, Tournier spur.
  
• Les Drus: the Bonatti Pillar